Born: 1898 (Forest Glen, Maryland)
Died: 1976
Biography:
Miriam O’Brien Underhill (July 22, 1898 – January 7, 1976) was an American mountaineer, environmentalist, and feminist, best known for the concept of manless climbing – organizing all-women’s ascents of challenging climbs, mostly in the Alps.
Early Life:
Miriam Eliot O’Brien was born in Forest Glen, Maryland on July 22, 1898. Her father was a newspaper editor and government official, and her mother was a physician. With her parents, she first visited the Alps in 1914 and completed an introductory climb near Chamonix. She developed a fascination with mountaineering from an early age.
Education and Early Adventures:
Miriam earned a bachelor’s degree in mathematics and physics from Bryn Mawr College in 1920, and a master’s degree in psychology from the same university in 1921. During her summers, she continued to visit the Alps and dabbled in mountaineering. She studied physics at Johns Hopkins University from 1923 to 1925.
Mountaineering Achievements:
Miriam O’Brien began serious rock climbing in the Alps in May 1926. She achieved her first major ascent by completing the first ascent of the Torre Grande in the Dolomites, a route now known as the Via Miriam in her honor. This climb marked the beginning of her illustrious mountaineering career.
On August 6, 1927, Miriam, along with Alfred Couttet, also known as Couttet Champion, and Georges Cachat, completed the first ascent of the Aiguille de Roc in the massif of Mont Blanc. This achievement solidified her reputation as a skilled and daring climber.
One of Miriam’s most remarkable accomplishments came on August 4, 1928 when she, accompanied by her future husband, Robert L. M. Underhill, and guides Armand Charlet and G. Cachat, completed the first ascent of the traverse from the Aiguilles du Diable to Mont Blanc du Tacul in the Alps. This challenging route involved climbing five outstanding summits over 4000 meters and showcased Miriam’s technical skill and endurance.
In 1929, she climbed the Aiguille du Grépon with French climber Alice Damesme, becoming the first female climbing duo to achieve this feat. Their accomplishment caused quite a stir, with mountaineer Étienne Bruhl expressing his disappointment that the climb had been accomplished by women, stating that no self-respecting man can undertake it.
Undeterred by the criticism, Miriam O’Brien Underhill continued to push boundaries in mountaineering. On September 3, 1930, she climbed the most difficult route on the Finsteraarhorn, the north-east face, with guides A. and F. Rubi. This peak, the highest in the Bernese Alps, had only been climbed twice in the preceding 24 years, demonstrating her exceptional climbing abilities.
In 1931, Miriam climbed the Mönch and the Jungfrau in the Bernese Alps with Micheline Morin. The following year, in 1932, she achieved another groundbreaking milestone by completing the first all-women’s ascent of the Matterhorn, once again climbing alongside Alice Damesme. This accomplishment further solidified her reputation as a pioneer in women’s mountaineering.
Later Life:
In 1932, Miriam O’Brien Underhill married her climbing partner and Harvard professor, Robert L. M. Underhill. The couple had two sons, born in 1936 and 1939. After World War II, Miriam and her husband ventured into new mountaineering territories, exploring ranges in Wyoming, such as the Wind River Range, as well as the Mission and Swan Ranges in Montana.
Miriam’s Legacy:
Miriam O’Brien Underhill’s contributions to mountaineering extended beyond her personal achievements. She advocated for the concept of manless climbing, which involved organizing all-women’s ascents of challenging mountains. Her efforts played a crucial role in breaking down barriers for women in the male-dominated world of mountaineering.
As an environmentalist, Miriam was deeply committed to the preservation of natural spaces. She recognized the importance of wilderness conservation and worked to raise awareness about environmental issues throughout her life.
Miriam O’Brien Underhill’s accomplishments not only expanded the boundaries of mountaineering but also challenged societal norms and expectations for women. Her determination and trailblazing spirit continue to inspire generations of climbers and feminists alike.
Awards:
– List of awards or recognitions received by Miriam O’Brien Underhill is not available.