Born: 1998 (Boulder, Colorado)
Margo Hayes (born February 11, 1998) is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. Known for her remarkable achievements in the sport, Hayes has made history as the first woman to accomplish various climbing feats. Her passion for climbing began at a young age, and she went on to become one of the most influential figures in the climbing community.
Hayes initially trained as a gymnast at CATS Gymnastics in Boulder before transitioning to rock climbing at the age of 10. She quickly excelled in the sport and joined Team ABC, a renowned youth climbing program in Boulder, where she was mentored by coach Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou. Hayes’ family background also played a significant role in shaping her love for climbing. Her grandfather, Dr. James Morrissey, led the groundbreaking climb of the Kangshung Face on Mt. Everest, while her father embarked on climbing adventures in Yosemite Valley.
Hayes gained recognition in the climbing world through her exceptional performance in competitions. As part of the US National Team, she competed in all three disciplines of the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) events: lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering. In 2015, at the IFSC World Youth Championships in Arco, Italy, Hayes won silver medals in both bouldering and lead climbing, finishing just behind the formidable Janja Garnbret.
The following year, Hayes claimed victory at the IFSC World Youth Championships in Guangzhou, China, competing in the Juniors category. She achieved a remarkable feat by winning both the bouldering and lead climbing events, while also securing a 15th place finish in the speed category. Her outstanding overall performance earned her first place in the standings. Hayes’ success continued to garner attention, and in 2016, she received a prestigious Golden Piton award from Climbing Magazine for successfully conquering 14 routes graded 5.14.
Continuing to push the boundaries of the sport, Hayes etched her name in history as the first woman ever to complete a 9a+ (5.15a) graded route. On February 26, 2017, she accomplished this extraordinary feat by ascending La Rambla in Siurana, Spain. Her groundbreaking achievement shattered the glass ceiling for female climbers and inspired countless others to push their limits.
Hayes further solidified her position as a trailblazer in the climbing world by completing the third-ever female ascent of a 9a+ (5.15a) grade on September 24, 2017. This time, she conquered the challenging Realization/Biographie in Céüse, France. The accomplishment showcased her incredible skills, strength, and determination.
In March 2019, Hayes added yet another remarkable achievement to her list by completing her third 9a+ (5.15a) route. She successfully climbed Papichulo in Oliana, Spain, completing the trilogy of the benchmark and most notable 9a+ (5.15a) graded routes. Hayes’ ability to consistently push boundaries and achieve new heights elevates her status as one of the most accomplished climbers in history.
Outside of her climbing endeavors, Hayes has also received recognition for her talents in other areas. In 2016, she won a prize in a scholastic art show, showcasing her creativity and multidimensional abilities.
Hayes’ exceptional achievements have earned her numerous accolades, further solidifying her status as a pioneering figure in the climbing community. Among her notable rankings and awards are the bronze medal at the 2019 USA Climbing Open Bouldering Championships, 10th place at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships Female Boulder, and bronze at the 2017 IFSC Youth World Championships Female Junior Combined.
Margo Hayes’ determination, skill, and groundbreaking accomplishments have left an indelible mark on the world of climbing. Her achievements have not only shattered barriers and ushered in a new era for women in the sport but also inspired climbers of all genders to push their boundaries and embrace the seemingly impossible. Hayes’ contributions to women’s history in climbing are immeasurable, and her legacy will continue to inspire generations of climbers to come.