Beth Rodden (born April 5, 1980) is an American rock climber known for her ascents of hard single-pitch traditional climbing routes. She has made significant contributions to the sport and has pushed boundaries for female climbers. Rodden’s impressive achievements, challenging experiences, and her role in women’s history have made her an inspiration to climbers around the world.
Rodden’s climbing career began in 1995 at The Rocknasium, a climbing gym in Davis, California. She quickly developed her skills and started participating in competitions. In 1996, 1997, and 1998, she won the Junior National JCCA Championships. Her talent and determination earned her the top rank in the ASCF adult national series in 1997 and 1998. In 1998, Rodden made history by redpointing the sport route To Bolt Or Not To Be, becoming the youngest woman to ascend a 5.14a route.
Rodden’s remarkable achievements caught the attention of Lynn Hill, a pioneer in free climbing. Hill invited Rodden to join her on the first all-female ascent of Madagascar’s Tsaranoro Massif in 1999. This expedition marked a turning point in Rodden’s climbing career, as she shifted her focus towards traditional climbing.
In 2000, Rodden and her then-partner Tommy Caldwell completed the second free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan. This was a significant accomplishment, as The Nose is one of the most iconic and challenging routes in the world. The duo’s success further solidified Rodden’s reputation as an exceptional climber.
Rodden’s determination and skill led her to achieve multiple groundbreaking accomplishments. In 2005, she became the first woman to free climb two routes on El Capitan: Lurking Fear (which she climbed in 2000 with Caldwell) and The Nose. She continued to push the boundaries of climbing by redpointing The Optimist in October 2005, becoming the first American woman to achieve a 5.14b grade.
One of Rodden’s most significant achievements came in February 2008 when she made the first ascent of Meltdown in Yosemite. This thin, sustained crack had been projected by renowned climber Ron Kauk and was regarded as one of the hardest pitches in Yosemite. Rodden’s ascent, graded 5.14c, made her the first woman to climb at that level in Yosemite. It took 11 years for anyone to make a second ascent of Meltdown, highlighting the difficulty and significance of Rodden’s achievement.
In addition to her climbing accomplishments, Rodden faced a significant challenge in August 2000. While on a climbing trip to Kyrgyzstan’s Kara Su Valley with Tommy Caldwell, Jason Singer Smith, and photographer John Dickey, they were taken hostage by rebels from the Islamic Movement of Uzbekistan. For six days, they were held captive, forced to hide, and constantly on the run as their captors evaded the military. Eventually, they managed to overpower one captor and escape to a Kyrgyz army camp. This experience tested Rodden’s resilience and showcased her strength in the face of adversity.
Beth Rodden’s contributions to the sport of rock climbing are remarkable and continue to inspire climbers worldwide. Her determination, skill, and groundbreaking achievements have pushed the boundaries for female climbers. Rodden’s ability to overcome challenges both on and off the rock exemplifies her strength and resilience. She has undoubtedly left a lasting impact on the world of climbing and has paved the way for future generations of female climbers.