Born: 1984 (Cincinnati, Ohio)
Biography:
Angela Payne, born on November 6, 1984, is an American rock climber known for her expertise in bouldering. She holds the distinction of being the first-ever female to climb an 8B (V13) boulder, a remarkable achievement in the history of the sport.
Payne was born and raised in Cincinnati, Ohio, where she developed a passion for climbing from a young age. At the age of 11, she started indoor sport climbing and soon began competing in junior sport climbing competitions. However, it was when she switched her focus to bouldering at the age of 15-16 that she found her true calling. Payne found inspiration in climbers like Lynn Hill and Lisa Rands, who she considered her idols during her formative years.
In 2003, Payne moved to Boulder, Colorado, to attend the University of Colorado Boulder. She pursued a degree in veterinary science and graduated in 2010. During her time in college, she made significant strides in her climbing career.
At just 19 years old, in her first year of college, Payne emerged as a dominant force in competition climbing. She achieved a clean sweep of the American Bouldering Series 5, winning all three national championship events and claiming the overall ABS 5 champion title. She also won two Professional Climbers Association (PCA) competitions, securing the overall PCA championship as well. These victories marked her arrival on the climbing scene and set the stage for a successful career.
Over the years, Payne continued to excel in bouldering competitions. She consistently finished on the podium, securing second place overall in the US Bouldering Open National Championships in 2012, and third place in 2006, 2007, and 2015. Payne’s talent and dedication were evident in her numerous podium finishes and victories in individual competitions, including the 2006 SENDFEST in Salt Lake City and the 2010 Triple Crown Series at Horse Pens 40 in Steele, Alabama.
Beyond her competition success, Payne is also known for her accomplishments in bouldering. Between 2004 and 2009, she completed the first female ascent of several bouldering problems graded V10 (7C+) to V12 (8A+). Her climbs garnered attention and recognition, leading to an honorable mention in Climbing magazine’s 2007 Golden Piton Awards. In the same year, Payne received the Everest Award for Female Boulderer of the Year at the prestigious Teva Mountain Games, solidifying her status as one of the top climbers in the world.
In 2010, Payne achieved a groundbreaking feat when she became the first-ever female to climb a confirmed 8B (V13) boulder. Her ascent of The Automator in the Rocky Mountain National Park was a historic moment in the sport, highlighting her exceptional skill and tenacity. This accomplishment paved the way for future female climbers, inspiring them to push their boundaries and shatter long-standing barriers.
Throughout her career, Angie Payne has made significant contributions to the world of climbing. Her achievements, both in competition and on the rock, have cemented her legacy as one of the greatest female climbers of her generation. She serves as an inspiration to aspiring climbers, especially women, encouraging them to pursue their dreams and embrace the challenges that come along the way.
Awards:
– Overall ABS 5 champion (2003-2004)
– Overall PCA champion (2003-2004)
– Female Boulderer of the Year at the Teva Mountain Games (2007)
– Honorable mention in Climbing magazine’s Golden Piton Awards (2007)