Born: 1989 (Hudson, Wisconsin)
Biography:
Alexandra Johnson, commonly known as Alex Johnson, was born on April 3, 1989, in Hudson, Wisconsin. Her passion for rock climbing emerged at an early age, and she embarked on an extraordinary journey that would establish her as one of the most accomplished American climbers.
Johnson’s ascent to the top of the climbing world commenced in 1997 when she first discovered her love for the sport. At just twelve years old, she won her first American Bouldering Series Youth Climbing National Championship in 2002. Her exceptional talent and dedication were apparent as she claimed victory at the Adult National Championships the following year, becoming a national champion at the tender age of thirteen.
Throughout her childhood, Johnson continued to dominate professional bouldering competitions, showcasing her remarkable skills. However, during her final two years of high school, she temporarily veered away from climbing and channeled her energy into track and field. In 2007, her endeavors paid off, and she emerged triumphant in the Wisconsin State Championships in pole vaulting, earning herself a track and field scholarship to Minnesota State University.
In 2008, Johnson’s phenomenal abilities resurfaced as she clinched the first stage of the annual Bouldering World Cup series held in America. This victory propelled her to leave Minnesota State University and relocate to Colorado, where she concentrated on bouldering. The following year, she attained yet another exceptional achievement by winning the overall American Bouldering Series (ABS 10). Additionally, she secured second place in a 2009 World Cup stage, an impressive feat considering her prodigious competitors.
Eager to enhance her skills, Johnson ventured to Europe to train with the Austrian team. Unfortunately, 2011 presented her with a series of disappointments in various competitions, coupled with a distressing bout of depression. As a consequence, she made the decision to return to the United States.
Between 2012 and 2015, Johnson consistently excelled in national and international competitions, earning acclaim and recognition for her outstanding performances. Notably, she secured first place at the UBC Pro Tour Championships in 2012 and achieved second place in the American Bouldering Series National Championships, finishing just behind her exceptional counterpart, Alex Puccio.
After a brief hiatus from competitive climbing, during which she took on a coaching role, Johnson made a resounding comeback in 2019, with her sights set on the 2020 Olympics. While renowned for her achievements in competition climbing, Johnson has increasingly shifted her focus to outdoor climbing. She has conquered numerous notable outdoor problems, cementing her reputation as a pioneer for female climbers. Among her impressive ascents are Luminance, Whispers of Wisdom, Across the Tracks, Progressive Guy, Vigilante, Stake Your Claim, Diesel Power, Beyond Life, Dark Horse, Seek and Destroy, Prune Tang, and many others, all accomplished at the V10 grade. Furthermore, she has triumphed on challenging routes such as Stand and Deliver, Drive On, Divergence, Gypsies, Tramps and Thieves, Double Stack, Clear Blue Skies, The Mystery, Diaphanous Sea, and Lethal Design.
Undoubtedly, Alex Johnson’s unwavering dedication, exceptional talent, and relentless pursuit of excellence have left an indelible mark on the climbing world. She continues to inspire climbers worldwide, particularly women, and her achievements serve as a testament to her enduring legacy.
Awards:
– Winner of the overall American Bouldering Series (ABS 10) in 2009
– First-place finish at the UBC Pro Tour Championships in 2012