Biography:
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (born 13 December 1970) is an Austrian mountaineer known for her remarkable accomplishments in high-altitude mountaineering. She has made history by becoming the second woman to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders, the peaks in the world that are above 8,000 meters (26,247 ft) in elevation. What makes her ascent even more extraordinary is that she achieved this feat without the use of supplementary oxygen or high altitude porters, a stunning display of her skill, determination, and resilience.
Kaltenbrunner’s passion for mountaineering began at a young age. Even as a teenager, she was drawn to the mountains and completed climbing tours at the local Sturzhahn. As she pursued her nursing training in Vienna, Austria, her love for climbing continued to grow. She actively participated in numerous ski, ice, and rock-climbing tours, honing her skills and preparing for bigger challenges.
It was at the age of 32 that Kaltenbrunner climbed her fourth 8,000-meter peak, Nanga Parbat, and made the life-changing decision to become a professional mountaineer. From then on, she dedicated herself to pushing her limits and conquering the world’s highest peaks.
In her pursuit of climbing all fourteen eight-thousanders, Kaltenbrunner joined the ranks of Edurne Pasaban and Nives Meroi as one of the only three women to achieve this incredible feat. However, what sets Kaltenbrunner apart is her refusal to use supplemental oxygen, making her the first woman to officially reach all fourteen eight-thousanders without its aid.
While some controversy surrounded the claims of Oh Eun-Sun, who proclaimed to be the first female mountaineer to summit all fourteen eight-thousanders, Kaltenbrunner’s achievements stand as verified and undisputed. Oh Eun-Sun’s claim was later disputed due to controversy surrounding her climb on Kangchenjunga, as she admitted she could not summit the peak.
Kaltenbrunner’s list of expeditions is awe-inspiring, with each conquest marking a significant milestone in her mountaineering career. Starting in 1998 with Cho Oyu, she steadily ticked off the eight-thousanders one by one. Her successful summits include Makalu in 2001, Manaslu in 2002, Nanga Parbat in 2003, and Annapurna I in 2004, among others. Finally, in 2011, she stood atop K2, the last and most formidable of the fourteen.
Her journey to the summit of K2 was not without its share of challenges and tragedy. On the way to the summit in 2010, her climbing partner, Fredrik Ericsson, tragically lost his life in a fall. Witnessing this devastating event, Kaltenbrunner chose to abort her summit attempt. Undeterred, she returned the following year, in 2011, and successfully reached the summit during her seventh expedition to the mountain.
Kaltenbrunner’s achievements have not gone unnoticed, and her contributions to the world of mountaineering have been recognized and celebrated. In 2012, she was honored with the prestigious National Geographic Explorer of the Year Award, a testament to her skill, perseverance, and indomitable spirit.
Beyond her mountaineering triumphs, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has also experienced personal challenges and change. In 2007, she married her mountaineering partner, Ralf Dujmovits, but later divorced.
Kaltenbrunner’s incredible mountaineering career continues to inspire countless individuals around the world. Her unwavering determination, unrelenting perseverance, and bold ambition have shattered expectations and opened up new possibilities for women in mountaineering. She has left an indelible mark on history and has undoubtedly earned her place as one of the most accomplished and influential mountaineers of her time.
Awards:
– 2012 National Geographic Explorer of the Year Award.