Born: 2003
Biography:
Ai Mori (森愛, Mori Ai, born September 17, 2003) is a Japanese professional rock climber, sport climber, and boulderer. She has made significant contributions to the sport and has achieved remarkable success at a young age.
Mori’s climbing career started to flourish in 2016 when she won the Lead Japan Cup at the age of 12, making her the youngest champion in the history of the competition. Her talent and determination propelled her to repeat her success in the subsequent years, becoming the national lead champion in 2018, 2020, 2021, and 2022. Notably, she also claimed victory in the Boulder Japan Cup in 2021 and finished as the runner-up in 2018.
In 2019, Mori made her debut on the international stage and immediately left her mark. She secured two bronze medals in lead and one in bouldering World Cups, showcasing her versatility and adaptability across different climbing disciplines. Later that same year, she achieved a significant milestone by clinching the bronze medal in the lead category at the IFSC Climbing World Championships. At just 15 years old, Mori became the youngest Japanese climber ever to reach the podium at a World Championship, surpassing the previous record held by Akiyo Noguchi.
Mori’s journey continued in 2022, where she demonstrated her prowess by clinching three gold medals in World Cup events. Her first triumph came in September at the World Cup event in Koper, Slovenia, where she outperformed Janja Garnbret, the reigning champion who had won all four lead World Cups that season. This victory marked a sensational comeback for Mori, as it was her first international event since the 2020 Olympic qualifying event in 2019. Undeterred by her hiatus, she then secured first-place finishes in two more World Cups: the lead event in Edinburgh, Scotland, and the season-ending combined boulder and lead event in Morioka, Japan.
In addition to her competition success, Mori has left an indelible impact on the climbing community. Her achievements have inspired aspiring climbers, particularly young women, to believe in their potential and break barriers. By defying age norms and achieving remarkable feats early in her career, Mori has become a symbol of perseverance and determination.
Awards:
– Lead Japan Cup (2016)
– National Lead Champion (2018, 2020, 2021, 2022)
– Boulder Japan Cup Champion (2021)
– Bronze medal in lead, IFSC Climbing World Championships (2019)
– Gold medal, World Cup event in Koper, Slovenia (2022)
– Gold medal, World Cup lead event in Edinburgh, Scotland (2022)
– Gold medal, World Cup combined boulder and lead event in Morioka, Japan (2022)