Born: 1960
Biography:
Catherine Destivelle (born 24 July 1960) is a French rock climber and mountaineer who is considered one of the greatest and most important female climbers in the history of the sport. She came to prominence in the mid-1980s for sport climbing by winning the first major female climbing competitions and by being the first-ever female to redpoint a 7c+/8a sport climbing route with Fleur de Rocaille in 1985. In 1988, she achieved another significant milestone by becoming the first female to redpoint an 8a+ (5.13c) route with Choucas. During this period, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world, along with the US climber Lynn Hill. However, in 1990 she retired from sport climbing to focus on alpine climbing.
In 1990, Catherine Destivelle made history by making the first-ever female alpine ascent of the Bonatti Pillar on the Petit Dru. This challenging ascent further solidified her reputation as a pioneer in the field of mountaineering. The following year, in 1991, she achieved yet another groundbreaking feat by becoming the first-ever female to create a new extreme alpine route, also on the Petit Dru, which was named Voie Destivelle in her honor. These achievements showcased her exceptional skill, determination, and willingness to push the boundaries of what was considered possible for female climbers.
From 1992 to 1994, Destivelle embarked on an incredible journey, becoming the first female climber to complete the winter alpine free solo of the north face trilogy of the Eiger, the Grandes Jorasses, and the Matterhorn. These daring and high-risk solo climbs demonstrated her unwavering courage and unmatched technical ability. She fearlessly tackled some of the most treacherous mountain faces in the world, defying gender norms and inspiring climbers around the globe.
Destivelle’s mountaineering pursuits extended beyond the Alps. She also made multiple expeditions to the Himalayas and other high-altitude regions. In 1990, she conquered the Nameless Tower, a challenging rock formation in the Karakoram range. Her successful ascent solidified her reputation as an elite mountaineer capable of scaling formidable peaks in the most extreme conditions. In 1995, she achieved another milestone by climbing the southwest face of Shishapangma, one of the world’s fourteen peaks over 8,000 meters. She continued to push the boundaries of mountaineering by making a notable ascent of the south face of Peak 4111 in Antarctica in 1996.
In addition to her remarkable alpine and high-altitude achievements, Catherine Destivelle also made notable free solo climbs. In 1992, she completed an impressive free solo ascent of the Devils Tower, a prominent rock formation in the United States. Her skill and audacity were further showcased in 1997 when she successfully climbed the Old Man of Hoy, a sea stack in Scotland, without the aid of ropes or protection.
Destivelle’s compelling story and remarkable achievements have been the subject of several documentaries, including Rémy Tezier’s Beyond the Summits, which won the best feature-length film award at the 2009 Banff Film Festival. Her contributions to the world of climbing and mountaineering have had a lasting impact and continue to inspire generations of climbers, both male and female.
Her outstanding achievements and contribution to the world of climbing were recognized in 2007 when she was made a Knight of the Legion of Honour, one of France’s highest distinctions. In 2020, she received the prestigious Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award, becoming the first-ever female recipient of this honor.
Catherine Destivelle’s dedication, determination, and groundbreaking accomplishments have solidified her place as a true trailblazer in the world of mountaineering. Her fearless pursuit of new challenges and unwavering commitment to pushing the limits of what is possible serve as an inspiration to climbers and outdoor enthusiasts around the world.
Awards:
– Knight of the Legion of Honour (2007)
– Piolet d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award (2020)